That said, Serle has a light touch and lets the scenery steal the show. The Thai Tree House, with its cushioned loft and imported teak cabinets, sits on stilts amid bamboo and fragrant eucalyptus. At the other end of the property is the octagonal Bali Bungalow, where the custom-made bed lies in the center of the room, beneath a skylight. Both have stylish kitchens, outdoor soaking tubs, and sublime views.

At check-in, you'll get flowers, some nourishment (sushi, papaya, a selection of cheeses), and enthusiastic directives: "Haliimaile General Store is the best restaurant on Maui. Order the blackened ahi." After that, you're pretty much left to yourself. Housekeeping comes around once a week, and the closest restaurants are a 15-minute drive down the hill in Makawao. But you can—and should—arrange for at least one moonlit, all-organic dinner on your deck. As for activities, there are miles of hiking trails nearby and the island's best windsurfing is at Hookipa Beach, a 20-minute drive away!

The luxurious cottage is surrounded by bamboo for privacy, perfect when you want to soak in the double tub on the porch. You'll undoubtedly take breakfast on the porch, too, and perhaps you'll return from your explorations earlier than you would have otherwise to have a glass of wine before dinner. The kitchen is small and open but very complete, with top-of-the-line amenities, including teak cabinets and floors and granite countertops. No spaces are too small for attention: even the bathroom features marble countertops and bamboo towel racks.

The compact cottage is well laid out. Peaked ceilings give it an even more spacious feel. The antique Oriental carpets are lovely; a multitude of wood carvings are modern Thai; an old Thai bedstead has been converted into a comfy couch. A steep ladder leads to a lofty meditation area. There is a television with a VCR and a few tapes, a CD player, and a telephone.

The focal point of the room is undoubtedly the bed, and fortunately it lives up to its glorified position. Pristine with white Ralph Lauren sheets and a down comforter, the carved bed is among the most comfortable in Hawaii. (It's a Four Seasons Resorts mattress- as fine as they come.)

The very amicable hosts, Ranjana and Ron, live across the way, so you'll have plenty of privacy here without feeling as if you've been abandoned. Ranjana offers yoga classes and is happy to share her knowledge of hidden Hawaii with guests. She also prepares and beautifully presents vegetarian and fish dinners for guests on request. At the present time, Ranjana and Ron are planning to build an additional octagonal cottage. If the Aloha Cottage is unoccupied, you'll definitely want to inquire about it.

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